Fante's Kitchen Shop - fantes.com

 
Page Contents:
-Oils & Moisturizing Cream
-Care of Unfinished Wood
-Wood Finishing

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Wood Care Ingredients & Instructions

Items made of unfinished, unlacquered wood, such as many bowls, spoons, cutting boards and knife handles, require only minimal care in order to retain their unmatched beauty, longevity, and practicality.

 Snow River Wood Oil - 8 Oz Mineral Oil, 8 Oz

$5.99
#22090
"green" eco-friendly product8 fluid ounces,
Pure food grade mineral oil,
Plastic squeeze bottle,
Made in USA Made in USA.
Tasteless, odorless and does not become rancid.
See instructions below.
Wood Moisturizing Cream Wood Moisturizing Cream, 5 Fl Oz

$7.99
#5507
"green" eco-friendly productPaste,
5 fluid ounces,
Contains natural unbleached bee's wax and food grade mineral oil.
Squeeze directly onto the surface of the wood and massage by hand into the grains. For best results, let the paste soak into the wood overnight, then remove excess with a paper towel.
Bamboo Oil Bamboo Oil

$5.99
#22031
"green" eco-friendly product8 fluid ounces,
Biodegradable food-safe oil,
Contains no fillers or waxes,
Made in USAMade in USA.
Prevents drying and craking of bamboo products

 

How to Care for Unfinished Wood Utensils

Oil natural wood utensils on a regular basis. We recommend it monthly or even more frequently.

We recommend mineral oil.
• Food grade mineral oil is tasteless and odorless.
• It does not get sticky and does not become rancid with time.
• It does not stain wood.
• It does not harden and keeps the wood pliable enough and clean enough for use in all kinds of food preparation.
• Pastry boards shouldn't be oiled, as they're always used dry.

Rub oil with a cloth or paper towel in generous amounts, until it no longer absorbs.
• The wood and the oil should be at room temperature before starting.
• For very dry utensils, you should repeat the process after 6-8 hours, and again, if necessary, until the oil is no longer being absorbed after that time.
• Then use a cloth or paper towel to wipe off any excess oil that remains on the surface.

Wash your properly oiled wooden utensils without worry.
• Do not soak wood utensils soak, and do not put them in a dishwasher.
• Keep food from drying hard by cleaning utensils right away.
• Most utensils can simply be wiped clean with a cloth or paper towel. Use soap and hot water for spoons, spatulas, and other utensils that come in contact with raw foods, like meat and egg products.
• For wood pastry boards, use a nylon or metal scraper to remove stuck-on dough.

If you used soap, you might need to re-oil after drying. Soap removes oils, and should only be used when necessary, such as with utensils that come in contact with potentially hazard-posing raw foods. Other times, rub with a lemon wedge after drying.

Towel dry wooden boards and utensils thoroughly after washing.
• Wood dries faster than plastic, and will thus be less likely to harbor bacteria on its surface.
• Quickly drying keeps water from soaking into and damaging the board, especially if it's in need of a good coating of oil.

Rub a wedge of lemon on the wood to help keep it free from bacteria and other germs. Makes it smell good, too.

Store in a dry location, at room temperature, away from hot, cold and humid areas.
• Excessive heat dries the surface oil, and causes warping, splitting, and cracking.
• Extreme cold temperatures are very dry, draw the moisture from the wood, and cause warping, splitting, and cracking.
• Moisture that stays on wood causes it to split from expansion.
• Never subject wooden utensils to temperature extremes. Like us, wood needs a bit of time to warm up when coming in from the cold, and it doesn't like touching very hot pots, either.


Salad bowls can just be wiped clean and dry with a paper towel.
• Avoid build-up of vegetable oil and intense flavors by keeping bowls clean and coated with mineral oil.
• If build-up does occur, scrub with lemon juice.
• If lemon juice doesn't remove build-up of sticky oils, scour with medium-grit sandpaper, then re-season the bowl with mineral oil.

Cutting boards should be cleaned thoroughly after use.
• Note also, boards should never be used interchangeably with uncooked meat (including poultry and fish) and other foods (like bread, salads, etc.). This is important in order to avoid possible cross contamination from pathogens found in uncooked meat products.
• The USDA recommends that you wash wooden cutting boards and utensils used with uncooked meat products (including fish and poultry) with hot, soapy water, then rinse and dry.
• Before first use, make sure your cutting board is well oiled.


Warranties on wood products cover their materials, workmanship, and merchantability.
• Warranties do not cover cracking or splitting that occurs when wood has been soaked, when it has dried from not being oiled regularly, and when it has been subjected to intense changes in temperature and humidity.

If a wood board or bowl is well maintained (washed with no soaking nor dishwasher after use and dried immediately, kept oiled, not subjected to unusual temperatures), it is simply not likely to warp or crack. If a well maintained board cracks, it will “most likely” be due to a manufacturing defect, and it would more than likely be a split along a glue line.

A dry wooden board or bowl that has NOT been maintained will eventually crack along the grain of the wood. If subjected to the dishwasher and other temperature extremes, it might also crack at the glue joints by weakened glue bonds.

The glue joints are supposed to create a stronger bond than the wood fibers. Manufacturer defects are often caused by things like too little glue, too tight clamping, unclamping too soon, the improper mating of joints, and even the wood’s moisture content as it was being glued.


Reminder... When you notice the wooden becoming dry (it will lighten in color), it's time to re-oil. Better yet, just make it a point to re-oil on a regular basis. That old wood spoon from grandma will then last you just about forever, or until it wears out, whichever comes first.

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Wood Finishing

What if you want a hard finish on your wooden counter or butcher block?
• A hard finish of a food-safe lacquer or varnish means no more oiling.
• But you can't use it as a cutting surface, as sharp objects scar the finish.
• And always use a trivet under hot or cold dishes.

The best food-safe lacquer is shellac. In flake form, it is free of water, wax and preservatives, and can easily be mixed as needed. It is easy to apply, protects well against moisture, and makes a wonderful shiny surface. Small blemishes can be easily repaired, however heat spots and alcohol spills are damaging and require work to fix.

The best food-safe varnish is natural tung oil. It is easy to apply, protects well against moisture, blemishes can be easily repaired, and lasts much longer than shellac. It takes more coats than shellac, and more work to get a shiny surface, a longer drying time, and is more expensive.

Other food-safe lacquers and varnishes are available commercially, and should be matched to the type of food and degree of food preparation to be done on the surface area.

Always read the labels and follow the manufacturer's instructions for best results.

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"green" eco-friendly product  Eco-Friendly Leaf

This green leaf, which you'll see next to many of our wood products, indicates that the product is made from renewable resources.

The lack of a leaf next to many of our products should not be interpreted as an indication that they are not eco-friendly. Just that we have no way to confirm it one way or the other.
 


  Click for PDF Informational document on wood types, terms, grades, and care (98KB)
 


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1006 S. Ninth St.
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19147-4798
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