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Mineral Oil, 8 Oz
$5.59
#22090
|
 8
fluid ounces,
Pure food grade mineral oil,
Plastic squeeze bottle,
 Made in USA
Tasteless, odorless and does not become rancid.
See instructions below. |
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Wood Moisturizing Cream, 5 Fl Oz
$7.99
#5507
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Paste,
5 fluid ounces,
Contains natural unbleached bee's wax and food grade mineral oil
Squeeze directly onto the surface of the wood and massage by hand
into the grains. For best results, let the paste soak into the wood
overnight, then remove excess with a paper towel. |
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Bamboo Oil
$5.99
#22031
|
8
fluid ounces,
Biodegradable food-safe oil,
Contains no fillers or waxes,
Made in USA
Prevents drying and craking of bamboo products |
How to Care for Unfinished Wood
Utensils
Oil natural wood utensils on a regular
basis. We recommend it monthly or even more frequently.
We recommend mineral oil. Food grade
mineral oil is tasteless and odorless. It does not get sticky and does not
become rancid with time. It does not stain wood, nor does it harden. (Get
it
from us, or from your local supermarket or drug store.)
Rub on generous amounts of the oil
(warmed to room temperature) and allow to soak in. Repeat the process about
6-8 hours later, and repeatedly if necessary, until the oil is no longer
being absorbed. Then wipe off any excess that remains on the surface.
Wash your wooden utensils without
worry after oiling. But...
Do not let wood utensils soak, and do
not wash them in a dishwasher.
Dry wooden boards and utensils
thoroughly after washing. Wood dries faster than plastic, and will thus be
less likely to harbor bacteria on its surface.
Bowls that you regularly use for
salads can just be wiped clean with a paper towel. It will soak up any
excess oils and be ready for your next salad. Build-up of vegetable oil can
be removed through repeated scrubbings with lemon juice.
Cutting boards should never be used
interchangeably with uncooked meat (including poultry and fish) and other
foods (like bread, salads, etc.), to avoid possible cross contamination
from pathogens in uncooked meat products.
The USDA recommends that you wash
wooden utensils (especially cutting boards and utensils used with uncooked
meat products (including fish and poultry) with hot, soapy water, then rinse
and dry. If you follow their instructions, first make sure the wood is well
oiled before using it, and that the utensils have been at room temperature,
not out in the cold. Follow with a generous oiling, since soap will remove
much of the surface oil.
In addition, you can rub a wedge of
lemon on the wood to help keep it free from bacteria and other germs.
Store wood products in a dry location
at room temperature; away from hot, cold and humid areas. Heat will dry the
oil on the surface, and possibly cause warping, splitting or cracking. Cold
temperatures are usually very dry, will draw moisture out of wood, and
possibly cause warping, splitting or cracking.
Cracking or splitting usually occurs
when wood has been soaked and when it is moved from hot to cold or cold to
hot, when it dries from not being oiled regularly, and when subjected to
intense changes in temperature and humidity. This type of cracking is not
covered under any warranty.
When you notice the wooden utensil
becoming dry (it will lighten in color), it's time to re-oil. Better yet,
just make it a point to re-oil on a regular basis. That old wood spoon from
grandma will then last you just about forever, or until it wears out.
Wood Finishing
What if you want a hard finish on your wooden counter or butcher block?
If you still desire to use the wooden utensil for some degree of food
preparation, but without any cutting, you can use a food-safe lacquer
or varnish.
The best food-safe lacquer is shellac. In flake form, it is
free of water, wax and preservatives, and can easily be mixed as needed. It
is easy to apply, protects well against moisture, and makes a wonderful
shiny surface. Small blemishes can be easily repaired, however heat spots
and alcohol spills are damaging and require work to fix.
The best food-safe varnish is natural tung oil. It is easy to
apply, protects well against moisture, blemishes can be easily repaired, and
lasts much longer than shellac. It takes more coats than shellac, and more
work to get a shiny surface, a longer drying time, and is more expensive.
Other food-safe lacquers and varnishes are available commercially, and
should be matched to the type of food and degree of food preparation to be
done on the surface area. Read the labels and follow the manufacturer's
instructions for best results.
"Green" Eco-Friendly
The green leaf,
that you'll see next to many of our wood products, indicates that the
product is made from renewable resources, or that it is recyclable.
We understand that wood that comes from forests in the United States and
in Europe is
managed, and thus considered a renewable resource. This is not necessarily
the case with wood from other parts of the world.
 Informational
document on wood types, terms, grades, and care (98KB)
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