||Mineral Oil, 8 Oz
Pure food grade mineral oil,
Plastic squeeze bottle,
Made in USA
Tasteless, odorless and does not become rancid.
See instructions below.
||Wood Moisturizing Cream, 5 Fl Oz
5 fluid ounces,
Contains natural unbleached bee's wax and food grade mineral oil
Squeeze directly onto the surface of the wood and massage by hand
into the grains. For best results, let the paste soak into the wood
overnight, then remove excess with a paper towel.
Biodegradable food-safe oil,
Contains no fillers or waxes,
Made in USA
Prevents drying and craking of bamboo products
How to Care for Unfinished Wood
Oil natural wood utensils on a regular
basis. We recommend it monthly or even more frequently.
We recommend mineral oil.
• Food grade mineral oil is tasteless and odorless.
• It does not get sticky and does not become rancid with time.
• It does not stain wood.
• It does not harden and keeps the wood pliable enough and clean enough for
use in all kinds of food preparation.
• Pastry boards shouldn't be oiled, as they're always used dry.
Rub oil with a cloth or paper towel in generous
amounts, until it no longer absorbs.
• The wood and the oil should be at room temperature
• For very dry
utensils, you should repeat the process after 6-8 hours,
and again, if necessary, until the oil is no longer being absorbed after
• Then use a cloth or paper towel to
wipe off any excess oil that remains on the surface.
Wash your properly oiled wooden utensils without
• Do not soak wood utensils soak, and do
not put them in a dishwasher.
• Keep food from drying hard by cleaning utensils right away.
• Most utensils can simply be wiped clean with a cloth or paper towel. Use
soap and hot water for spoons, spatulas, and other utensils that come in
contact with raw foods, like meat and egg products.
• For wood pastry boards, use a nylon or metal scraper to remove stuck-on dough.
If you used soap, you might need to re-oil
after drying. Soap removes oils, and should only be used when necessary,
such as with utensils that come in contact with potentially hazard-posing
raw foods. Other times, rub with a lemon wedge after
Towel dry wooden boards and utensils
thoroughly after washing.
• Wood dries faster than plastic, and will thus be
less likely to harbor bacteria on its surface.
• Quickly drying keeps water from soaking into and damaging the board,
especially if it's in need of a good coating of oil.
Rub a wedge of lemon on the wood to help keep
it free from bacteria and other germs. Makes it smell good, too.
Store in a dry location, at room temperature,
away from hot, cold and humid areas.
• Excessive heat dries the surface oil, and causes warping, splitting,
• Extreme cold temperatures are very dry, draw the moisture from the wood,
and cause warping, splitting, and cracking.
• Moisture that stays on wood causes it to split from expansion.
• Never subject wooden utensils to temperature extremes. Like us, wood needs
a bit of time to warm up when coming in from the cold, and it doesn't like touching
very hot pots, either.
Salad bowls can just be wiped clean and dry
with a paper towel.
• Avoid build-up of vegetable oil and intense flavors
by keeping bowls clean and coated with mineral oil.
• If build-up does occur, scrub with lemon juice.
• If lemon juice doesn't remove build-up of sticky oils, scour with medium-grit sandpaper, then re-season the bowl with mineral oil.
Cutting boards should be cleaned thoroughly
• Note also, boards should never be used interchangeably with uncooked
meat (including poultry and fish) and other foods (like bread, salads,
etc.). This is important in order to avoid possible cross contamination
from pathogens found in uncooked meat products.
• The USDA recommends that you wash
wooden cutting boards and utensils used with uncooked
meat products (including fish and poultry) with hot, soapy water, then
rinse and dry.
• Before first use, make sure your cutting board
is well oiled.
Warranties on wood products cover their
materials, workmanship, and merchantability.
• Warranties do not cover cracking or
splitting that occurs when wood has been soaked, when it has dried from
not being oiled regularly, and when it has been subjected to intense changes
in temperature and humidity.
If a wood board or bowl is well maintained (washed with no soaking nor dishwasher after use and dried immediately, kept oiled, not subjected to unusual temperatures), it is simply not likely to warp or crack. If a well maintained board cracks, it will “most likely” be due to a manufacturing defect, and it would more than likely be a split along a glue line.
A dry wooden board or bowl that has NOT been maintained will eventually crack along the grain of the wood. If subjected to the dishwasher and other temperature extremes, it might also crack at the glue joints by weakened glue bonds.
The glue joints are supposed to create a stronger bond than the wood fibers. Manufacturer defects are often caused by things like too little glue, too tight clamping, unclamping too soon, the improper mating of joints, and even the wood’s moisture content as it was being glued.
Reminder... When you notice the wooden becoming
dry (it will lighten in color), it's time to re-oil. Better yet, just make
it a point to re-oil on a regular basis. That old wood spoon from grandma
will then last you just about forever, or until it wears out, whichever
What if you want a hard finish on your wooden counter or butcher block?
• A hard finish of a food-safe
lacquer or varnish means no more oiling.
• But you can't use it as a cutting surface,
as sharp objects scar the finish.
• And always use
a trivet under hot or cold dishes.
The best food-safe lacquer is shellac.
In flake form, it is free of water, wax and preservatives, and can easily
be mixed as needed. It is easy to apply, protects well against moisture,
and makes a wonderful shiny surface. Small blemishes can be easily repaired,
however heat spots and alcohol spills are damaging and require work to fix.
The best food-safe varnish is natural tung oil. It is easy to
apply, protects well against moisture, blemishes can be easily repaired, and
lasts much longer than shellac. It takes more coats than shellac, and more
work to get a shiny surface, a longer drying time, and is more expensive.
Other food-safe lacquers and varnishes are available commercially, and
should be matched to the type of food and degree of food preparation to be
done on the surface area.
Always read the labels and follow the manufacturer's
instructions for best results.
This green leaf, which you'll see next to many of our wood products, indicates
that the product is made from renewable resources.
The lack of a leaf
next to many of our products should not be interpreted as an indication
that they are not eco-friendly. Just that we have no way to confirm it
one way or the other.
document on wood types, terms, grades, and care (98KB)